Fast & Furious

So, I seen you are using an FC 3000 + ur TS 1000 for veg. This is far to much ppfd for a seedling. Your TS1000 at 50% alone is more than enuf for 4 or so wks of veg. So, lose a light. If you choose to use the FC 3000 set at 45cm away and 25%, I have the fc 3000 and it's a very powerful light.. but again your 150w will do. As for your plant..if the little leafs ( not the ones that's burnt, "coty", they fall off in the end) if that had burnt you'd be in trouble. They just pop 1st from shell to bring out the 2 green leafs what will turn into your 1st true fan leafs. All looks well there. But, you defo don't need an FC3000 + TS1000 for veg pal

I see a bit water burn or staining but I don't you need throw the baby out with the bath water...Let it ride man, they're a hardy plant and can take a bit of abuse she should be fine..

You never ever want to top an autoflower! Some people do try and some of them are lucky - but honestly, that's all it is is luck because it requires you to know exactly WHEN the plant is going to go into pre-flower because if you do it too close to that event, the plant will not have time to recover and will not set buds. Best stick to LST only... Good luck....

@Lewd101 is correct. Below is a re-post my gnat prevention and infestation strategy from the first week my current diary (growdiaries.com/diaries/165223-grow-journal-by-negotiatebubble/week/926585). I alway add BTi to my nutes each feeding:       🚜 Kill Any Tag Along Pests on the Clones    ‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾ Clones arrived in mineral wool “rockwool” cubes. Before these clones entered my sacred space, I swirled each one in the Neem Oil solution to kill any tag along pests:

      NEEM OIL SOLUTION:   Before adding most of the water, mix together a tiny bit of that warm water, ¼ tsp dish soap and 10 ml Cold Pressed Neem Oil. 
     Then, pH 56oz / 1.5L of warm water add it to the neem/soap mix. 


 Cold Pressed Neem Oil is different than cheaper heat processed neem oil because it still contains the natural Azadirachtin (same active ingredient that is in AzaMax pesticide). Also, neem has a weird property in that is kills a lot of the bad pest in the soil without harming good things in the soil food web like nematodes, protozoa, anthropods, etc.This is why it makes a great soil drench for gnats as well. During a gnat outbreak treatment, I will spray the neem oil solution on top of the soil to stop the adult from laying eggs     
  
   Organic Neem Bliss 100% Pure Cold Pressed Neem Oil
     https://www.plantonix.com/neem-oil.php       🚜 Gnat Prevention    ‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾ I hate fungus gnats. 

    I will only be watering the mineral wool “rockwool” cube itself plus watering about 8cm or so of the soil around the cube to avoid having the dry soil wick all of the water away. It even more crucial that I avoid watering any soil that is not yet occupied by the root system. That unoccupied soil will just stay wet, which grows fungus, which attracts fungus gnats. This is why a good rule in later weeks (Weeks 2+) to let the plants go a bit thirsty rather than risk overwatering. It does not rain on schedule in the real world. A fungus gnat spends most of its lifecycle as a larvae, not the adults that you seen flying around. This is why yellow sticky traps should only be used to monitor for infestation since only catching the gnats in the very last part of their life cycle will not help. Non-adult gnat larvae will eat the root tips of your seedlings and starve it to death. 
 
 After I transplanted the clones into Happy Frog soil in 5 gallon fabric pots, I added a solution of BTI (Bacillus Thuringiensis subspecies Israelensis, aka Mosquito Dunks brand) to the watering container each feeding to kill any larvae based pests such as gnats. Mixing Mosquito Bits into the soil before planting is also a great idea. 

    


  https://summitchemical.com/products/mosquito-dunks   https://summitchemical.com/products/mosquito-bits

I noticed you started with a pH of 7 in your grow medium and just now got it to 6.3 I think this was your main problem. Like I stated it's not what nutrients your giving them, it's that she can't absorb them. You can tell by leaching of color in the leaves. (Can also happen from excess water.) If your ph starts to rise again I suggest you add some dolomite limestone to your soil. It will help keep your oh I'm check and in turn prevent nutrient lock out. I hope this helps.

Nothing to worry about here - just a genetic mutation.

I feel it would. You can put them to sleep at weird times, but I never turn on the lights unexpectedly. Sometimes it is cloudy during the day in nature, but the sun NEVER comes up during the night.

Yes, I believe you are right, it's minor nutrient burn. No big deal, just use plain water next time and water to 20% run-off and go again with lower nutrient next time you feed. I actually alternate between watering and nutrient feeds (and water to 20% run-off) every week when using liquid fertilisers in soil grows, as it prevents build ups of salts in the pots - which is probably what the plant is showing. Btw, Growladyeastmidlands seems to say that to absolutely every question she sees 😂

Signs of Light Burn/Stress I will recommend download PPFD Meter set yours light more up like 55-60 cm see if something change 😉