Barneys Farm indica grow with NFT

When growing hydroponics, you really need to have a ppm, ec reader to feed properly. Here is a feed schedule I use VEG STAGE FEED SCHEDULE This feed regiment is for hydroponics such as RDWC, DWC, Drip systems, coco, promix HP, etc. This is for photo plants. From the day your babies pop from the soil, feed at, Day 1....400 ppm, 0.8 ec for photos, 250 ppm, 0.5 ec for autos Day 7....500 ppm, 1.0 ec for photos, 350 ppm, 0.7 ec for autos Day 14..600 ppm, 1.2 ec for photos, 450 ppm, 0.9 ec for autos Day 21..700 ppm, 1.4 ec for photos, 550 ppm, 1.1 ec for autos Day 28..800 ppm, 1.6 ec for photos, 650 ppm, 1.3 ec for autos Stop there unless you see your girls really need more. This applies for any fertilizers made for hydroponics and soil less grows. Maintain your ph at 5.8 through the entire veg cycle, and and try to keep your water as cool as possible

i wouldn't remove any leaves at this point. that'll only slow you down -- not an opinion. Do you intend to use any of the stuff you listed. if you know those lowest 2 branches won't be used in the canopy, cutting them off is fine. i never use the axial buds from lowest growth node with the 1 finger leaves. i cut those off as soon as i they are large enough to safely snip off, because i know 100% that is wasted resources on growth i don't use. Even when i train those fckers to be dominant branches and even with canopy they have sucky buds by comparison to other colas in my experience. the leaves power growth, not getting light to hit axillary buds. how easily they branch out is more about genetics. When you see heavily shielded axillary growth and tucking/bending isnt' enough, sometimes removing a leaf is useful. Try to wait until whatever is filling that space is large enough that you don't create large holes in your canopy.. light completely missing the plant is not effective use of electricity and only slows growth with less potential photosynthesis per day. Remove the leaves when other leaves are congesting an area and you are getting potential condensation and such... or the RH is spiking too high in those areas. Don't remove them just because you see others doing it. i made that mistake plenty when topping and training early on.

What organomann said. Though, there are some reasons to do it despite the negatives he lists that are all true. Risk reduction being one. You should have a specific reason to do it. Leaves overlapping that cause standing water on leaves is a disease vector. A shit ton of congested leaves raising local RH is a disease vector, too. Standing water and excess moisture on leaves, bad! Unnngghhh!! https://youtu.be/Mawve_3NSj4?t=30 When i see a leaf controting or can easily predict it, that's another reason, also interelated to congestion above. Controrting means the leaf is putting a lot of effort into seeking light - reacting because is not getting enough. Rather have a few fully covering area without contortion. Vectors of light not hitting tops of leaves are severely attenuated, even if still causing some photosynthesis. Greater surface area of leaves lying properly is probably better. Timing helps avoid any negatives too. Be pataient and let any growth that is expected to fill in gaps is actually be big enough to do so. No reason to take it off too soon. I also remove axillary buds that I know will never be included in my canopy, but I don't clip off that node's leaves, if there is no reason to do so.