White Walker Kush experiment

DAY 1 03/09/17 No big changes and no significant new growth so far but looking happy. Rearranged the LST just a bit to get a near perfect circle. (BTW I love the band too...👻). During daylight, I put her in front of the window (the shitty west side of the house). After 7 PM I always roll her under the weak UV bulb because the sun is setting quite early by now. She's experiencing a lot of stress in the evening (TV, lights on/off, lighters, aso... ). No regular time-table used. I just switch the light off when I go to sleep. She's barely drinking at all. Didn't feed her for a week now. The top soil is still moist. But despite all of this, I think she's still doing great. (Yeah I hope it's a she... damn it...). Still some weeks left before I can clear the grow-box for flowering this baby. Can't wait to move it ... if this turns out to be a male ... I'll.. I'll.. ah.. whatever... GEAR UPDATE: Decided to switch from HPS to LED due to high temperatures in summer, so I bought a Viparspectra Reflector 450W LED light. Also bought 4x 15L airpots and 1L of Final Flush. I'm seeing more and more people using that final product so I thought why not try this... Can't wait for the delivery... 🙌 I'm really starting to like this site. Pretty cool features and layouts and there's some badass growers out there to follow. Already found some really precious infos out here! Thanks! It's a nice change from usual forums I think... 👍 __________ PERSONAL NOTE (just stumbled upon this and found it to be very interesting) Information taken from Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University. The Myth of Fragile Roots “You shouldn’t disturb the rootball when transplanting trees and shrubs” The Myth “When you transplant, try not to disturb the roots, just take the whole pot-shaped lump of soil/roots and pop it into its new home.” This and similar advice can be found on web sites and in gardening books, all which warn us of the fragile nature of roots. When we upend a container and slide out the root ball, it’s an innate response to handle those tiny white and brown strands gingerly so as not to break them. Since the survival success of a newly installed tree or shrub is dependent upon healthy, functioning roots, it seems obvious that the more intact the root system the better the chances of establishment. Anything that damages this intricate web would seem to add to transplant shock. The Reality Though gentle handling of roots is good advice when transplanting seedlings, especially annual flowers and vegetables, woody perennials, shrubs, and trees all benefit from a more vigorous approach. There are several reasons for this, and surprisingly some of the harshest techniques result in the healthiest plants. Containerized materials, especially those in gallon sized pots, often have serious root problems as a result of poor potting-up techniques. Potbound plants exhibit circling root systems, which if not corrected become woodier and more troublesome the older they get. Eventually these circling root systems become girdling roots, which can lead to the early death of otherwise healthy trees and shrubs. At transplant time, a more aggressive approach to root preparation can discover potentially fatal root flaws. Circling roots, J-hooked roots, knotted roots, and other misshapen roots can often be corrected by careful pruning. In this manner it’s possible to remove those root problems before they threaten the survival of your shrub or tree. It’s important to realize that roots respond to pruning in much the same way as the crown: pruning induces new growth. Roots that are pruned at transplant time, especially those that are excessively long or misshapen, will respond by generating new, flexible roots that help them establish in the landscape. It is vital that these new transplants are kept well-watered during this time. A second problem with containerized materials can also be avoided during your root inspection. In general, the media in the container is a soilless mix with a large proportion of organic matter and pumice. If transplanted with the plant as part of the root ball, this material will inhibit root development outside the planting hole. Furthermore, the porous texture of this planting media will often lose water more rapidly than the surrounding native soil, resulting in increased water stress to your new transplant. It is much better for root establishment to remove as much of the container material as possible before the plant is installed. The best use for the discarded container mix is as a topdressing over the disturbed soil. When covered with wood chips or another mulch that will reduce weed colonization, the container media serves as a nice source of slow-release nutrients. ______________