Hydro Herz OG

Get rid of the tnb down for hydro. I used it and it was pure shit. Absolute shit. It was given to me free and all it did was cost me a ton of money in having frequent res changes and h202 thinking I had an infection, ditched the tnb and used GHE down and problem solved overnight. Do not use anything considered organic for hydro, no matter what the label says. It's just not stable. I think this maybe causing you some issues keeping ph dialed in. I would also immediately start a light feed at maybe 25% of recommended strength and move up from there. She looks hungry.

hey there, that's textbook calcium deficiency and magnesium deficiency , you can tell by the way those rust spots are , that's calcium, the way the leafs are yellowing on the edges that's the magnesium deficiency. Nothing simpler to fix, add cal mag and the problem will stop spreading immediately and the plant will completely recover in less than 10 days. However you have another problem which you did identify which is nitrogen excess causing lock out : that you can see from the "too green" aspect of the leafs, but the lock out symptoms are the burnt tips and the yellowing from the veins outwards even though you are actually adding N and it looks like lack of nitrogen . you should really find a more appropriate NPK ratio, in hydro the problem will stop spreading quite quickly once you dial that in. Hope tihs helps ! 🚀

I like to take off what i *know* will be trashy fluff... i err on the side of keeping some. So, if familiar with the zone in your canopy where good buds grow, don't cut into that.. miss by more to be sure. new lights or first grow? be a bit more conservative. I think i have a good example of lollipopping in week 2 or 3 of my GGxWW diary... should see a canopy and lower view too -- it's a flowering plant, not what the diary is about. don't be surprised it's a vege week, lol. Now, if you mean just below canopy.. .leave that.. the idea of removing foliage is to improve photosynthesis to more areas of the plant to spread reserouces... Resources are somewhat mobile, but less efficient growth will result in the areas with very little light hitting leaves. it will be depending on it being trucked in from elswhere in the plant... not optimal / low priority. prune anything below teh sweet zone too.. rip off new auxiliary buds about to grow anywhere low on plant... it also improves visibilty when giving a looksy for nanners later too. i do this when it has 7-10 days left to grow back a bit... the leaves you remove will somewhat be replace, but a bit smaller and by that time the growth should have mostly occured in the other areas to some extent. plus, less blocking going forward still.

For me, it suggests the one on the left has had a higher dose of nitrogen or hadn't needed what it was given, and the one on the right is using more nitrogen and becomes deficient but it could just be genetic differences...

It depends if it says since switching to 12/12, or since the first flowers appearing. Your girls seem to have started flowering two weeks on after the 12/12 switch so they might be around week 8-9. Looking at the trichomes, I didn't see amber, and there are still some clear. Pistils are brown and looking amazing. Waiting another week wouldn't hurt in my opinion, at least until seeing more amber trichs (unless you don't want that effect obv) Very good grow by the way!