Dream selection #1

I thnk your growmates are correct. But, you will find many that use the paper towel method - or anything similar. Aeroponics / hydroponics an option too. my arguement for planting directing into substrate that you will use in grow -- less adaptation required. Roots form differently depending on the substrate. Light is bad for roots. It messes with them like light impacts hormonal balance of vege/flower. You end up touching a germinated seed.. wash your hands, disinfect area... 1 more risk you shouldn't take without good reason. keep it simple. plant in whatever you'll grow it... if that's hydro, make a hydro germination setup. If soilless, i would plant into the soilless substrate. A smaller initial pot is a good idea except for maybe autoflowers. Otherwise if the pot is huge relative to a seedling, it can potentially delay above ground growth. Not absolutely necessary though. I think it provides more consistent results / easier to water properly with well-paced wet/dry cycle.

Hey friend, Reverse osmosis water always brings the best for me.I was using regular tap water of 200ppm and got some pH problems.RO water of 20ppm will make you easy to handle with your nutrient.Happy growing... ✌️

Heya Dreembomber! 30% is low for the vegetative state however would help out a lot if you could place a dome over top or a large zip lock bag with holes for air. I try to keep 50-70% RH for veg and 35-50% for flower. Other options include adding wet towels in the tent or a pot of water in front of a fan. Good luck!

Hey Mate, the Idea of a SCROG is to bring every blossom on the same Level with a screen you place at a certain height. So that every Budsite will get the same amount of light. You have to integrate the plant into the net/screen and if your screen is full with plants about 70% you change to bloom.. works well on Photos, but I'm afraid the Autos will have too less lifespan to fill up a decent scrog-net. HST as you describe it, is a good way to keep the canopy on a Level. Autos maybe don't have the time to recover if you apply more HST on them. Hope this helps a bit, good luck and happy trails for the rest of the way 🤞 Servus OimRausch

Hi! Best way to be sure is to buy CO2 meter and controller to automatically keep it in desired levels. If you don't want to spend more money you can use math to calculate approx levels. So the optimal PPM for CO2 in veg is something like 800PPM and in flowering it's 1500PPM and normal levels in atmosphere is ~300ppm. You need to add 1200PPM more to the atmosphere in flowering to achieve 1500PPM and here comes the "tricky part". How powerful is your extractor fan? You need to add 0.12% of total volume of the tent to acheve 1500PPM. So 256l*0.12%=0.31l of CO2 but your extractor fan changes the air constantly so if the air gets changed once in a minute you need to have atleast 0.3l/minute airflow for CO2 to achieve that constant 1500PPM levels. Might not be totally accurate calculations but atleast you should get the idea from this

This is a old trick when you had bad weed on the black market, or when you were growing for the black market, and grew bad weed. I wouldn't put anything that contains moisture in as Shagrath said, it leaves the issue open to molds/mildews/rot etc. Your herb shouldn't need any help, cure it till it tastes good.

I find out that one guy have an article our journal. So now I don't expect any overgrow. 💪💪💪 growdiaries.com/journal/best-pot-size-for-cannabis-grow 👊👊👊

Almost all substrat can be re-use it really depends on what you used to know what to do to re-use it. Coco coir degrades over time and rurns into coco peat. Coco peat is too dense, holds too much water and not enough oxygen. However, you can get rid of the peat by rinsing it with a strainer and keep the remaining coir and perlite. Some medium like clay pebble or hydroton are more simple to re-use. Soil and living soil should be conditioned with extra amendments, compost and other good stuff. Promix (peat moss) and rockwool cubes would fall under the non reusable for me. hope this help

Flushing is a technique used to wash out of the medium nutrients that have been accumulating during previous weeks of feeding. It is used when too many nutrients have been added to the medium, affecting the plant in negative ways. If you feed your plant the correct amounts of nutrients, there is no need to flush.

If you're sure that you're going to harvest in the next week, you can flush. Right now, the science basically says that it won't change your end result, but it will save you some money on nutes. On your final week, they shouldn't really be taking in much for nutes, so if you want to feed, just do half strength. Flushing too early will starve her when she's fattening up the most.

Yes, balcony will not work, far too cold. This would lead to many problems, with the flowers more or less turning into compost rather than drying. And unless you want all your clothes to smell like cannabis, the living room is your best option. Remember, you will need good air circulation for proper drying to occur and putting your flowers in a cardboard box may not be ideal. I don't know how much you have to dry, but I find hanging the branches on wire clothes hangers works well, allowing for excellent air circulation. It is also relatively simple to construct some poles or ropes across the room to hang your wire coat hangers on. Another good option is an indoor clothes drying rack, either to hang the coat hangers on or the branches themselves. Also, try to dry your flowers in dark conditions or away from direct light, as direct light on your flowers when drying or even after they have dried, will cause massive breakdown of the THC. Hope this helps,... Organoman.