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3 months ago
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3 months ago
@Papa_T, Yeah, short-term use of it will reduce risk associated with ozone and venting outside will reduce a need for a dehum for sure. If you are maintaining a safe range of RH% and it results in a VPD range you want along with temps, you don't need a dehum. Venting outside helps alot. If you get high RH in a cyclical manner in your region, you may need one occasionally. Before i grew in winter only, RH was a big problem in the summer for me and i vented outside back then. It became an invisible problem when i scaled up and moved to winter-only. I have a temp probe that can inform me of temp/rh/dewpoint without opening tent, nowadays... zero surprises. I used to be pretty festidious about cleaning.. then i had my multi-grow WPM issue that took a bit to recognize the cause. I got a bit pissy about it, lol, and didn't bother cleaning much. Around the same time i scaled down and all of a sudden the WPM issue abated. Which was a bit upsetting considering the time and effort i put into cleaning prior hoping it would help. This is the main reason i say climate is the biggest factor by far. I definitely had some spores "somewhere" that cycle but they never got a foothold. I've since cleaned of course. Haven't seen any WPM since then... next cycle will be 2 years. Scaling down dropped me to 27-28C during day, but the dehum could keep up properly and still 68-70F after lights out. Half the wattage helped with the temps. Half the canopy helped with the RH. WPM magically went away and before that particular run i didn't do shit becuase to clean i was so pissed. Before i was as high as 30-32C with 60% rh, which is a dewpoint just over 71F. Higher range of heat with appropriate RH has a dangerously high dewpoint. If it is a concern, download a dewpoint reference table or get one of those 10 USD temp/rh probes. Definitely useful with photoperiods in flower, anyway. It is important to clean, but you don't have to be crazy anal about it in my experience. A good wipe down with some sort of cleaning solvent is probably good enough for 99% of cases.
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sanibelisl
sanibelisl
Dude so sorry the graph I made showing the the light specs were jumbled by the app. 452 is the peak blue spectrum and 660 red and 780 far red. The other numbers represent (umol’s/s). So I am so very sorry for you writing that novel on quantity per sq.m. In the future please short precise answers.
001100010010011110
001100010010011110
@sanibelisl, I get zero updates about comments to the profile, so this is pure luck i am reading this. use a dm or comment anywhre else, and i'll get a notificationa bout it, but not here. My answers are as precise as they can be given the info provided. I don't see th eimage you speak of. you can read the wiki for the math equation. it's quite simple stuff. phones are not quantum meters. umol/s of PAR is 10x more imoprtant than fretting over CCT.
sanibelisl
sanibelisl
Thanks again for being redundant. Decided heavier saturation of 660-760nm was needed during late flowering. As for the phone app , notice taken but I do have to say that bouncing it off of manufacturers specifications it is more accurate than I expected. Not that lumens matter but it was spot on, same with cct spot on, so that leads me to believe it is more likely close than not. Co2 good!! Co2 not!! In a closet with louvre doors. And it’s five from the taint. lol!!
001100010010011110
001100010010011110
@sanibelisl, it's going t0 read and give consistent values, and that's all that matters for how you are using it. if it reads "42" and that's where you find it is just dialed back from causing damage, then it's a good target to shoot for -- doesn't matter if it's really "42 dli" or not. However, you may need different targets for each light. that "35 dli" may actually be higher. if it too is at the point dialed back slightly from light damage, you can safely assume the two lights reading 42 and 35 are essentially providing similar DLI. this isn't opinion or a debate. it's mathematical fact. and it's a fact a phone can only read lumens/klux as it is not a quantum meter. So, it requires a conversion. Unless you have a light spectrometer, it's impossible to calculate a proper conversion factor. So, they use a "stock" factor that will generally work okay with most grow lights, since there's a fairly limited range of light properties, , especially nowadays with LED. All that thing is doing is reading klux then multiplying it by a factor to give a dLI reading... not unlike a "TDS" pen doesn't ever measure ppm. it is convereted EC using a factor which will vary by manufacturer. The ppm value is a figment. You can do the exact same thingn with lumens/klux and it will have the same error between grow lights as the "DLI" app. Also, if the app calculates DLI from 1 reading, that's retarded. It takes and average of many readings, greater quantity =greater accuracy, to competently measure DLI with a meter. Each individual measuremnt is merely a umol/s reading of PAR in that 1 spot. using your umol/s produced by the light is super easy to convert to a rough estimaet of DLI. It'll be more accurate than the phoen app for sure. divide it by m^2 then reference a DLi table. if it's close to your app reading, then it mean the app isn't far off. 42dli usually cause damage. So i would wager money it's reading high.
oldskoolkool
oldskoolkool
If you don't believe hormones make much difference take a llok at my roots,if you haven't already.
001100010010011110
001100010010011110
@oldskoolkool, No reason to take it personally. I used them for a couple years or more than stopped using them the last 3 years. Whatever difference it caused has been irrelevant to outcomes with clones. Regardless, once it's rooted it doesn't grow any better or worse than expected, so 1-2 days sliced off the initial rooting process is not that important out of a 90-100 day cycle. Certainly not the overpriced products that are out there. you can use any old indole-3-buteric acid or whatever it is. Not worth the effort nor the money. Plus, i've seen a lot of your answers stretching back to "drdee." I'm definitely not taking advice from you, bwahaha.