Morning Lemon AK-47 Collaboration

THAT'S MY BIOSPHERE! Seeds, pots, soil, lights check! Now how about creating our perfect micro climate for our plants to thrive. In general cannabis plants grow best at temperatures between 20–30°C (70–85°F) during the day. Growers tend to agree that the ideal temperature is around 25°C (or roughly 75°F). At night, cannabis plants like slightly cooler temperatures of roughly 17-20°C (62-68°F). The night temperature can drop 5 – 10°F (2 – 5°C). Daytime cannabis temperatures above 85°F (29°C) or below 60°F (15°C) will slow growth and should be avoided at all cost. When CO2 is enriched to 0.12 – 0.15 percent (1,200 – 1,500 PPM), a temperature of 85°F (29°C) promotes the exchange of gases. When enriched with CO2, plant photosynthesis and chlorophyll production are able to take place at a higher rate, thus causing the plants to grow faster. Adding an Exhale bag or other source of CO2 is an inexpensive way to increase atmospheric CO2 levels of 400ppm up to 800 to 1000+ ppm. Using an automated CO2 injection system would be ideal to achieve higher levels but becomes a steady expense and CO2 levels in a living space need to be closely monitored to avoid CO2 toxicity to people and pets. Cannabis temperatures that are below 50°F (10°C) will seriously stress the plants and lower productivity. If the electricity goes out in the middle of winter, be sure to be able to keep the room temperature above 40°F (5°C) to keep your plants alive. No guarantees though. The correlation between temperatures and humidity are a very important factor in plant transpiration. This effects how your plant will pull water/ nutrients through its root system into the plant/leaves where moisture exits the stoma which are located mostly under the leaves and CO2 is absorbed during photosynthesis. Adding a digitally controlled cool mist humidifier will add that much needed moisture to your grow space. If the humidity is too low for the temperature the stoma will close in an attempt to conserve moisture this also slows down much needed CO2 absorption. When this happens moisture and nutrients being absorbed by the roots slows down. It’s the equivalent of trying to drink water through a straw while biting down on it. Seedlings and very young plants are very reliant on having a high humidity level to lower the transpiration rate (Need to conserve moisture) until they can establish a large enough root system to handle the amount of water lost during the day. In other words, root growth is more important than seeing large amounts of vegetative growth in the beginning of your seedlings or young plant’s life. Maintaining a consistent temperature while slowly lowering your humidity during the course of your grow will result in forcing your plant to slowly increase transpiration which forces them to feed more during important phases of growth and bloom. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transpiration A major influence on transpiration which keeps the stoma open deals with LVPD (Leaf Vapor Pressure Deficit). Using the leaf or canopy temperature of your plants and the humidity levels will give you the most accurate information needed to calculate the ideal amount of LVPD for each stage of your grow. Take the average temperature of the leaves using an infrared thermometer, the average humidity and use the LVPD calculator in the link located below to see if it’s in the proper range there are some various charts available on this site for your particular difference in leaf and room temperature. Often growers make the mistake of using the room temperature rather than the leaf temperature in their calculations. The reason this is a factor is because the use of LED lights will usually result in a leaf temperature that can be as much as 4 to 5 degrees lower than room/ tent temperatures. Also using HID or Fluorescent bulbs can result in temperatures higher than room/ tent temperature. With HPS leaf temperatures can be 8 - 10 F higher than room temperatures due to the amount of infrared emitted by the bulb. Recommended LVPD Seedlings/Early Veg 0.4 - 0.8 kPa Late Veg/Early Bloom 0.8 - 1.2 kPa Mid/Late Bloom 1.2 - 1.6 kPa *** Danger Zone*** Below 0.4 kPa / Over 1.6 kPa https://www.dimluxlighting.com/knowledge/vapor-pressure-deficit-vpd-calculator/ https://www.dimluxlighting.com/knowledge/blog/vapor-pressure-deficit-the-ultimate-guide-to-vpd/ https://vpdcalculator.com/vpd-calculator https://www.blackdogled.com/lst Air circulation is important to avoid air stagnation which can lead to mold or mildew issues. Using small fans indirectly blowing around near your plants simulates a natural breeze which will help strengthen your plants stems to hold up those heavy buds. It’s important not to stress the plants by having them blowing directly on them. If you notice your leaves curling or clawing it “could” be caused from too much air being blown directly on them just try to adjust the fans to point directly at each other with opposing air currents this will disperse the air a little bit more indirectly. Do whatever gives you the best results. Air extraction using an inline exhaust fan venting outside with a variable speed controller will help regulate heat from your lights, humidity and exchange stale air from your grow space. If using an automated CO2 whole system controller, you will be able to properly time and regulate the release of CO2 to avoid waste. Remember to leave space for “clean” intake air to enter your tent or room while your exhaust fan is running. Lastly using a good carbon filter in your extraction system will help mask the odor from your plant to keep your grow as stealthy as possible. WEEK 3 UPDATE Take off! These girls shot up quickly which made me a bit nervous seeing it's only week 3 and my vertically challenged grow tent. They are unofficially starting to bloom. I'm calling this week veg since I'm continuing with veg nutes until they are 3/4 way through stretch and continue to do everything to prevent over stretching that too much nitrogen and phosphorus would cause also avoiding using a heavier red spectrum bloom light too soon. Started doing some LST training bending back the main cola about midway up the stem then manipulated a few branches for positioning using some anodized aluminum bonsai wire with a hook bent on one end and did some leaf tucking where needed. I'm trying to create a more uniform canopy if possible rather than having a predominant main cola sticking up to give equal light intensity to all top bud sites. They received 2 feedings about every 2nd to 3rd day only as needed still not watering to run off but moistening the entire surface of the pot to allow enough moisture for the microbes to thrive. Dropped lights to 16" PPF/PAR meter reading of 450-500 umoles giving me a DLI of 32.40 to 36.00 moles per day. Tent temperature 81 F with an average leaf temperature of 75 and average humidity of 60%. Giving me a LVPD of 0.80 kPa