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First Grow- White Widow ScrOG SF1000LEDs
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25
ScrOG
weeks 8-19
Defoliation
weeks 6-7, 9, 11-12
Topping
weeks 4-5
LST
weeks 4-7
Photos & Videos
seedling 1 healthy 11/18/19 light burnt tips
seedling 1 healthy 11/18/19 microscope
seedling 1 healthy 11/18/19 light burnt tips microscope
32+
32+ photos afterLogin
seedling 1 healthy 11/18/19 light burnt tips
seedling 1 healthy 11/18/19 microscope
Grow Conditions
Week 3
Vegetation
11.43
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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SUMMARY
- it went well for this week but i wish I had been more ready for the transplant, I didn't realized I should transplant once the plants leaves grow past the pot edges,
Nov. 18
7:30 - lights off for 30 min temp down to 66 and rH up to 80. Fan synchros at 4 and humidifier set to 80.
- humidifier lowered to 60
8:30 - temp: 67 rH: 66
10:00 - temp 67 rH: 57
12:00 - temp 66 rH 66
- grow room measured at 70F
13:00 - discolouration of seedling 1 is more pronounced today, it appears to be light burn, and seedling 2’s “propeller” appearance appears to also be the same. I will ensure manufacturer (spider farmer) recommendations of at least 24-30” (currently at 29” from floor, tops of seedling are approx 4 inch tall, leaving 25” overall)
18:00 - grow tent got all the way up to 81F and I have seen it as low as 66 after the lights go off. I am pretty happy with this but researched the “Honeywell HCE100WCD1 HeatBud Personal Ceramic Heater” and it seems perfect to hook up to a controller. I could get the night time temps closer to about 70, and it would make me feel better about not risking the temps dropping below 63, but will also worry me a bit about another potential hazard. Its loaded with safety features so I trust it. With 24/7 humidifier running, I think my grow tent climate is finally set. I may grab a set of Ink-Bird controllers for humidifier and possibly the space heater, right now I have the AC infinity fans running on a locked setting, not sure if i’ll start unleashing their bells and whistles because there is no need if everything is stable right now and if anything it may just cause fluctuations.
nov.19
- climate is stable with temps ranging from 66-81 on highs and lows, rH ranging from 50-80 with highs and lows, the humidistat is pretty trash on the humidifier compared to, and assuming the AC is in fact correct, which i trust much more.
- bottom light burnt leaves are stable but unfortunate rookie mistake of not following manufactures recommendations of germination/ seedling LED height
- roots have grown and only a little tip sticks out of the bottom of the starter pot (0.5L) and ready to transplant, hopefully today it can be done. They will be moved into the 5 gallon pots with pro-mix around the upper soil, and slowly blending into the Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil which is also blended with the pro-mix roughly 3:1 ration fox farm to pro-mix
13:30
- both seedlings given 25ml of water to help for transplant
- 5 gallon pot given roughly 2L of water to help transplant
- 16:00 both seedlings transplanted, small amount of pro-mix added on top
- Great root system on seedlings and very easy transfer
- 7” soil, Seedling 3” (10” total) & Lights now at 40” total or 30” above new seedling height
- 17:00 both seedlings given roughly 1L of water each to try and make transplant easier on them
nov.20
6:45 - plants look good in new pots and no stress indications
nov.21
- seedling one is about to grow its first 7 pointed set of serrated leaves
- seedling 1 is getting ready to be topped in the next few days, maybe the 26th
- seedling 2 is about 4-5 days behind in growth
nov.22
- 7:00 seedlings look like they have taken to new home, look great 48H and had a nice growth spurt yesterday
nov.23
- seedling 1 now has 4 nodes and will be topped in the upcoming days
- seedling 2 is very slow but looks to be about a full week behind
nov. 24
- plants doing great, will top both tomorrow
Specifications:😎👇
Seeds:
- 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed
Tent:
- 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent
LED:
- 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED (default 100 watt draw for seedling but will be bumped up to 125 Watt for flowering if not sooner)
Pots:
- 2x 0.5 L starter pots
- 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant
Soil:
- Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest
- Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix
- note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients.
Nutrients:
- Fox Farm Big Bloom
- Fox Farm Big Grow
- Fox Farm Tiger Bloom
Inline Fans:
- AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust)
- AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake)
- AC infinity 6" ducting
Oscillating fans:
- 2x Wind Devil 6" fans
Carbon Filter:
- 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans
- note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up.
Humidifier:
- TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier
Timers:
- 2x Kuman 15A/1800W 24-Hour Digital Timer
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Grow Questions
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
My grow tent drops down to 65 (75-80 with the fan on low settings during 16 hour light cycles) during the off 8 hours of the light cycle, I would like to establish a more consistent temperature, or at least ideally keep the grow tent closer to 70 while the lights are off. How?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
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Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
hi, iam using small Infrared heater with thermostate to keep the Temps around 70 degree. Those little ones are doing great. Ive choosen one with only 300 watts to save my electricity bill. And it wents on if temperatures are dropping. ........But you can start with extern conditions.. do you have aplace that is wamer=? can you " isolate" the Tent=?for outside with styropor// cardboard//And last solution is giving her external heat from a heater...
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
What should I do about the old leaves? likely ph imbalance and/or nute deficiency (Phosphorus -redding older stems + browning of dry leaves) and Nitrogen- slow light green new growth) - the issues seem to be resolved, but the leaves are flaking almost. mostly referring to plant 2
Solved
Leaves. Dropping off
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Mr_Weeds_Autosanswered grow question 5 years ago
I would remove them, remember whatever damage that has been done due to a deficiency will stay that way ... Plus having dead leaves around can leave room to invite unwanted insects to your environment because they love to feed on the dying leaves.
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
soil ph is erratic
fox farm ocean forest : pro-mix (3:1) - ph 6.3-6.8
run-off ph: plant 2: 4-6 plant 1: 5-6.8
watering / feed ph: 6.3-6.45
soil ph after water /feed: 5-7
soil ph when dry: 7.5-8
both plants treated 100% the same
phosphorus deficiency / ph imbalance help please
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Plant. Stem - Red or purple
1 like
JinksyGrowsanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello there. PH mal-adjustment with, what looks like, a P/Cal deficiency.
I also used Ocean Forest in my first grow because the pre-nutrient amended soil was attractive to me, but it kind of hurt more then it helped. Same as you, I ran into almost constant pH problems when using OC and it frustrated me endlessly (ended up using a neutral soil for the last 2 gallons for last pot up). Good news, I wouldn't panic over this too much. Changes need to made, probably some trial and error, but they will come back.
Red/purple stems can be a symptom of P deficiency but I see your night temps are around 19 degrees Celsius and could this can also change the colors of your stems, laterals and leaf veins. Copper spotting does not look like splash back to me at all. I feel you're looking at a phosphorous and calcium deficiency. The uptake of these nutrients is optimal at 6.2 and with the current swings in your pH (and also work in conjunction with one another), I don't think the plant is taking much of it up. You can give it as much as you'd like, but she just may not be having it.
Suggested solution: (Same thing I did to mitigate and remedy the same symptoms) Next feed (or two) I would simply "flush through" a good amount of pH balanced water @ 6.2-6.4. I would not recommend over-compensating and feeding anything about 6.6 as this may fix one problem while creating another (possible lockout of other essential nutrients). In these "flush throughs" I add my phosphorus blooming supplement with cal/mag (Usually 3/4 dose. Trust your gut, though). This way, you can properly flush out excess salts/nutrients/developing pathogens while not starving her of the P and Cal she desperately wants right now. After a couple consecutive flush throughs, you should notice the pH start to balance itself out. When you return to normal feeding (if pH is back in order) I would also suggest watching how much Nitrogen supplementation you give the ladies. Micro nutrients that work along side Nitrogen, like zinc, copper and iron, can interrupt the uptake of P and Cal/Sulfur and keep the soil mal-adjusted (uptake of these nutrients is around 5.5-5.7). OC medium is hard to gauge when it comes to Nitrogen. It's highly amended with these macro/micro nutrients and can certainly cause trouble. There are no hard answers to this question, but rather a roadmap to possible remedies over time.
Your girls will be just fine. Just need a little tweaking!👍 I hope this helped my friend. If this is the answer you're looking for there is no need to "pick" it. Remove the question and keep it for another day😉 (Weird how there's a time frame limitation to questions...I don't understand why). Cheers and good luck, no matter what course of action you take!!✊
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
Harvest on Mar.7, any tips or tricks welcome.
I plan on watering just 1.5 gal each on Mar. 4, turn off the lights for 36H Mar. 5 @7:00am-Mar.7 @6:45pm (15 min before lights on normally) I hope that the soil is dry for harvest.
cut down small stems, hang, remove dead leaves, dry
Solved
Buds. Other
Techniques. Other
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Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello, If you want to go with drytrimming you need a very good well areated place with a good tempeature and RH to let them dry ( for example on a clothes rack in your living room). If you dont have such a good place or dont want to use your living room😃. Then its better to cut in branches and get them a good wet trim, and hang them . In 95 percent i go with wet trimming. Its some work , but absolutely worth. And you can use the suagrleaves to do some butter, oil, shatter anything you like. I even keep fanleaves to make smoothies ( just pick them and freeze them to store)
the ugliest leaves it put to my compost.. or into my wormfarm.. so i dont throw away anything. The stalk and branches get sheddered and go to compost too
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