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First Grow- White Widow ScrOG SF1000LEDs

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5 years ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 16
Flowering
40.64
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
blackstrap molasses
2.113 ml/l
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom
1.321 mll
Tiger Bloom - Fox Farm
Tiger Bloom
1.981 mll
Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by
Troy_McClure Troy_McClure
5 years ago
Feb. 17 Ph 7.5 Moist - plucked all the bad leaves that were ready - Removed all the dead leaves - 3 gal of water ph of 6.4 + 15 ml big bloom + 20 ml tiger bloom + 9ml apple cider vinegar + 30ml blackstrap molasses unsulphured - Light burn seems to be the #1 problem, then ph fluctuations and nutrient burn - I think i held the measuring cup a little awkward most feedings instead of having it on a level surface and I probably overfed by 5ml each time - Most of the bottom leaves are green but have burnt tips, they are usually pretty attached - the middle section has lots of dead leaves but they are tiny little ones that have burnt and fallen off - the top leaves are all yellow on plant 1, with burnt tips, clawing up, very red stems, and are fairly easy to pluck off, not much effort on most - the most green areas are semi-shaded and off on the edges of the tent, and all the shaded areas remained green - Therefore, I would say my #1 problem was light burn, which made the ph fluctuations worse, nutrient deficiencies worse, and i over compensated and did not measure precisely causing nutrient burn - there is also some wind burn on the bottom areas - all in all the buds are developing nicely and bulking up decent amounts on plant 1, especially with all the topping - good trichomes coming out - plant 2 has different light burn but the leaves are praying up, and pointing up much more, more rusting also but they are not easy at all to pull off - the buds on plant 2 are also not growing nearly as well but the trichomes seem nicer and it seems to have more - the buds hopefully are more dense despite being small, they do look compact though - roughly 100 bud sites visible from the top of the canopy feb. 18 - ph. 7.2 - the clawing up and yellowing and burning of the tips has continued, likely past problems continuing to persist - these problems really only exist on the top set of leaves, which always brings me back to light burn - plucked another 10-15 clawed and burnt leaves from plant 1 - the buds got bigger, and the trichomes continue to pack on - seeing more promising growth/ recovery from plant 2 - trichomes appear to be quite clear, no signs of amber - The crop king seeds guide suggests 8 weeks of flowering time, we are a couple days into week 7 right now but the pistils are still about 60% white and somewhat straight, and the trichomes are quite clear. This would lead me to believe about 2 full weeks is left and likely closer to 2.5 weeks. - Trying to plan out my flush, leaving me a full 7-10 days to have the plants finish their nutrients, that flush would best occur at the mid point next week - I am expecting the trichomes to be cloudy by mid week 8, around feb. 25, I would flush them, and look to harvest 7-10 days later, around mar. 4-8 feb. 19 - ph 6.8 - moist - definitely bulked up more, plant 2 is back and growing strong, damage on top canopy continues to burn and curl, yellowing a growing splotchy brown spots, but I am very confident that this is past damage from light burn which has since been fixed by dropping the watts down by 140 - more pistils are going orange feb. 20 - buds fatting up really nice Feb. 21 - Daytime temps reduced to low 70s feb.22 - ph. 7.5 - moist - will water tomorrow - trichomes not yet fully cloudy - mostly orange pistils - mostly curled inward pistils, lower down popcorn still white and straight - excellent trichomes on plant 2 - will feed tomorrow then I expect the next thing will be to flush so this will likely be the last feed - daytime temps now 70-77 - nightime 65 +/-1F feb. 23 - plants look very thirsty, leave shriveling from before but hanging down and not perky at all - Dirt is very dry, moisture meter reads moist 5/10 - Ph: 7.6 - The plant is very hungry - Some noticeable stretching or just more visible now - Buds look to continue getting fatter and look really nice - 4 gal of water ph = + 22ml of big bloom + 30ml of tiger bloom + 30ml of blackstrap molasses + 9ml of apple cider vinegar - plucked more super dead leaves - Expected dates: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected cloudy trichomes: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected flush date: - feb. 25 - expected harvest date - mar. 4-8 Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for veg - 4x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for flower (190 watts - 50-40-50-50 back left, back right, front left, front right) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom - Wholesome - Blackstrap organic unsulphured molasses Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Mini fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Dehumidifier: - Frigidaire 30-Pint 3-Speed Dehumidifier Timers: - 2x VIVOSUN dual Digital Timer - 2x Kuman Digital Timer
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Grow Questions
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
My grow tent drops down to 65 (75-80 with the fan on low settings during 16 hour light cycles) during the off 8 hours of the light cycle, I would like to establish a more consistent temperature, or at least ideally keep the grow tent closer to 70 while the lights are off. How?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
hi, iam using small Infrared heater with thermostate to keep the Temps around 70 degree. Those little ones are doing great. Ive choosen one with only 300 watts to save my electricity bill. And it wents on if temperatures are dropping. ........But you can start with extern conditions.. do you have aplace that is wamer=? can you " isolate" the Tent=?for outside with styropor// cardboard//And last solution is giving her external heat from a heater...
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
What should I do about the old leaves? likely ph imbalance and/or nute deficiency (Phosphorus -redding older stems + browning of dry leaves) and Nitrogen- slow light green new growth) - the issues seem to be resolved, but the leaves are flaking almost. mostly referring to plant 2
Solved
Leaves. Dropping off
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Mr_Weeds_Autos
Mr_Weeds_Autosanswered grow question 5 years ago
I would remove them, remember whatever damage that has been done due to a deficiency will stay that way ... Plus having dead leaves around can leave room to invite unwanted insects to your environment because they love to feed on the dying leaves.
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
soil ph is erratic fox farm ocean forest : pro-mix (3:1) - ph 6.3-6.8 run-off ph: plant 2: 4-6 plant 1: 5-6.8 watering / feed ph: 6.3-6.45 soil ph after water /feed: 5-7 soil ph when dry: 7.5-8 both plants treated 100% the same phosphorus deficiency / ph imbalance help please
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Plant. Stem - Red or purple
1 like
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowsanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello there. PH mal-adjustment with, what looks like, a P/Cal deficiency. I also used Ocean Forest in my first grow because the pre-nutrient amended soil was attractive to me, but it kind of hurt more then it helped. Same as you, I ran into almost constant pH problems when using OC and it frustrated me endlessly (ended up using a neutral soil for the last 2 gallons for last pot up). Good news, I wouldn't panic over this too much. Changes need to made, probably some trial and error, but they will come back. Red/purple stems can be a symptom of P deficiency but I see your night temps are around 19 degrees Celsius and could this can also change the colors of your stems, laterals and leaf veins. Copper spotting does not look like splash back to me at all. I feel you're looking at a phosphorous and calcium deficiency. The uptake of these nutrients is optimal at 6.2 and with the current swings in your pH (and also work in conjunction with one another), I don't think the plant is taking much of it up. You can give it as much as you'd like, but she just may not be having it. Suggested solution: (Same thing I did to mitigate and remedy the same symptoms) Next feed (or two) I would simply "flush through" a good amount of pH balanced water @ 6.2-6.4. I would not recommend over-compensating and feeding anything about 6.6 as this may fix one problem while creating another (possible lockout of other essential nutrients). In these "flush throughs" I add my phosphorus blooming supplement with cal/mag (Usually 3/4 dose. Trust your gut, though). This way, you can properly flush out excess salts/nutrients/developing pathogens while not starving her of the P and Cal she desperately wants right now. After a couple consecutive flush throughs, you should notice the pH start to balance itself out. When you return to normal feeding (if pH is back in order) I would also suggest watching how much Nitrogen supplementation you give the ladies. Micro nutrients that work along side Nitrogen, like zinc, copper and iron, can interrupt the uptake of P and Cal/Sulfur and keep the soil mal-adjusted (uptake of these nutrients is around 5.5-5.7). OC medium is hard to gauge when it comes to Nitrogen. It's highly amended with these macro/micro nutrients and can certainly cause trouble. There are no hard answers to this question, but rather a roadmap to possible remedies over time. Your girls will be just fine. Just need a little tweaking!👍 I hope this helped my friend. If this is the answer you're looking for there is no need to "pick" it. Remove the question and keep it for another day😉 (Weird how there's a time frame limitation to questions...I don't understand why). Cheers and good luck, no matter what course of action you take!!✊
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
Harvest on Mar.7, any tips or tricks welcome. I plan on watering just 1.5 gal each on Mar. 4, turn off the lights for 36H Mar. 5 @7:00am-Mar.7 @6:45pm (15 min before lights on normally) I hope that the soil is dry for harvest. cut down small stems, hang, remove dead leaves, dry
Solved
Buds. Other
Techniques. Other
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello, If you want to go with drytrimming you need a very good well areated place with a good tempeature and RH to let them dry ( for example on a clothes rack in your living room). If you dont have such a good place or dont want to use your living room😃. Then its better to cut in branches and get them a good wet trim, and hang them . In 95 percent i go with wet trimming. Its some work , but absolutely worth. And you can use the suagrleaves to do some butter, oil, shatter anything you like. I even keep fanleaves to make smoothies ( just pick them and freeze them to store) the ugliest leaves it put to my compost.. or into my wormfarm.. so i dont throw away anything. The stalk and branches get sheddered and go to compost too
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